Into the Czech Republic
After our pleasant social stay in Dresden, we continued upstream. The weather was not especially fine but the riding was still relaxed and pleasant.
Sometimes the houses had eyes with which to follow us...
Through the trees, beside the tracks, under the cliffs...
A little damp but our raingear was up to the task.
We rode only as far as Bad Schandau on Monday; we had planned a further day sight-seeing with our friend Bernd and his son for the following day. I had first met Bernd in Texas at a rock-climbing area in El Paso, Texas thirty years ago. We had then travelled to California for more climbing and now he wanted to show me the area where he had learned to climb: Saxon Switzerland, between Dresden and the Czech border. (The climbing continues on the Czech side of the border.) It is quite a well-known area amongst climbers, with a fearsome reputation for very traditional climbs with the potential for long falls. The climbs ascend sandstone towers and we saw the first of the cliff from our ride.
National Park Sachsische Schweiz
Our bike path was parallel to the train tracks and went through little villages on its way to Bad Schandou where we had arranged a pleasant room at the 'Gasthaus & Pension Zum Roten Haus.' There didn't appear to be any shortage of accommodation in this quite popular and touristy area. We were enjoying dinner in our guesthouse restaurant when Bev began to feel a little uncomfortable: a German couple, about our age, was staring intensely at her but saying nothing. Did they think they knew her from somewhere? Whenever Bev looked up, the lady in particular, had her sights firmly on Bev.
With impeccable timing, we breakfasted at the same time as the German couple, the female half of which continued to stare. Bev was quite relieved to finish her meal and to wait in the room for Bernd and Michael to arrive for our outing. It was another overcast and somewhat clammy day.
Looking back down towards the Elbe
The sandstone rock wears easily when a rope is pulled over it so a 'rail' is cemented in place on the top of many routes for the rope to reduce the erosion. Widely-spaced bolts are drilled into the rock to provide some protection for lead climbers but a cool head is still required.
The top of this tower shows an anchor bolt where the rope will be attached, a rail to reduce damage to the rock from the rope and a small container where ascensionists can enter their name and the date of the ascent. But there were no climbers in evidence on this damp day. Nor, probably, would there be for the next few days; like some sandstone climbing areas in the US, rain makes the friable rock even more so and climbing is prohibited until the rock dries.
It is a pretty area, relatively unspoiled considering its popularity.
That evening, the staring woman was back. So very strange.
We rode into the Czech Republic the next day, where the Elbe became known as the Labe. We spent a slightly hungry night in a small ('unpretentious') but recent addition to booking.com. Penzion u Lipy. There was nowhere to eat in the small, quiet cluster of houses along the road that seemed to constitute Decin and we didn't know yet what to make of the Czech Republic.
Next morning (17 Sept) our first Labe crossing (or our first Elbe crossing in the Czech Republic).
The name Roudnice is thought to stem from the red colour of the spring (from iron ore in the soil)
The river valley floods quite regularly; this post show the height of the water, the flow and the date for various 'events.' Twenty years ago was particularly wet.
Melnik came into sight and, with it, the realisation of a hill to climb at the end of the day: up to the old city by the church to get to our beds. It was not too bad, though; it was crowded with people very much enjoying a wine-festival. Sunday afternoon and the streets were packed.
Our room had a purple theme, and a low-hanging beam that could take one's head off in the night on your way to the bathroom...
...which was similarly decorated.
After unloading our bikes and checking out the purple, we wandered the streets for a while before dining.
Tomorrow, we will say goodbye to the Elbe/Labe and head more or less directly to Prague, a day away.
This summer ride is drawing to a close.
Kanal
